Best of Kowloon

Best of Kowloon

Kowloon Peninsula, the northern portion of Hong Kong connected to mainland China, has become an ever expanding mecca for shopping, the arts, and entertainment. A British Colony since 1860, Hong Kong was returned to China in 1997. A cosmopolitan center, Kowloon is tightly packed and endlessly bustling with a close proximity to the international airport and the cruise ship terminal.

Although its mostly populated by Cantonese speaking Chinese, other cultures are represented in the mix: Thai, Indian, Indonesian, Filipino, and Nepalese, making for a thoroughly international city. Often labeled “more Chinese” than its island companion located just across Victoria Harbor, a visit to Hong Kong should include time spent in both areas. (Check out my recent article,”Best of Hong Kong Island,” for plenty of tips to complete your trip).

TOP KOWLOON SIGHTS

Tsim Sha Tsui: This vibrant district in the southern tip of Kowloon is a major tourist hub chock full of restaurants, museums, and performance spaces. It’s Hong Kong’s most cosmopolitan corner and host to the highest concentration of hotels. Take a walk down the Waterfront Promenade to the Avenue of the Stars (like Hollywood’s walk of fame), where local film stars are memorialized in the pathway. (The statue of Bruce Lee gets the most attention from selfie-stick wielding tourists.) Climb the stairs near the Clock Tower to the elevated observation deck to get face to face with Hong Kong’s iconic view.

Wong Tai Sin Temple Hong Kong

Colorful Wong Tai Sin Temple

Wong Tai Sin Temple: Built in traditional Chinese style, this famous Taoist temple boasts grand red pillars, a soaring golden roof adorned with blue friezes, bright yellow latticework, and detailed multi-colored carvings. Stop and have your fortune told by soothsayers working just outside the temple entrance.

Chi Lin Nunnery & Nan Lian Garden: This Tang Dynasty-style Buddhist complex is the largest in East Asia. Nuns have lived onsite since 1937, but the present structure opened in 1998—built completely of wood without using any metal nails. The grand compound includes Buddhist halls and a tranquil lotus pond-filled garden at the main entryway. The most impressive statue, the massive, golden Sakyamuni Buddha, rests on a lotus altar in the Main Hall. Across the road, Nan Lian Garden is hands down the most beautiful and tranquil Chinese garden in Hong Kong. Its winding paths take you past classically styled ornamental rocks, pavilions, water features, and rare, sculptured trees.

Nan Lian Garden

Hong Kong gem — Nan Lian Garden

MUSEUMS:

Traveling with kids? There are plenty of museums to keep them busy. The Science Museum: this technology and science focused museum with a flight simulator and loads of interactive exhibits, will keep kids of all ages engaged. The iconic, egg-shaped Space Museum houses the planetarium, Hall of Astronomy, Omnimax and 3D theatres. Recently undergoing major construction, check the website for its grand reopening. The Museum of History documents the story of Hong Kong, from its ancient origins to the end of colonial rule. The Museum of Art, Hong Kong’s largest public art gallery, mixes traditional and contemporary paintings, calligraphy, and photography – temporarily closed for a major renovation, it is slated to open in 2018. Hong Kong Cultural Center: Adjacent to the Star Ferry, this multipurpose performance center has a revolving schedule of Philharmonic performances, ballet, musicals, and children’s programming – holiday times brings the celebrated “Nutcracker.”

SHOPPING

Shanghai Tang: This unique men’s and women’s outfitter specializes in collections representing a modern chinoiserie style blending rich fabrics and traditional Shanghainese tailoring in novel, up-to-the-minute designs. Bright, saturated colors are a hallmark.

Shanghai Tang, Hong Kong

Shanghai Tang

Harbour City: A walk through this cruise ship terminal will lead you to three shopping malls which comprise this massive complex stretching for 500 meters along Canton Road. Yes, many of the 450 retail locations are those you see in the U.S. or European malls, but there are some unique shops, some great dining choices (50 of them!), and on a hot and humid Hong Kong day, nothing beats browsing in this blocks-long, air-conditioned oasis.

Temple Street Night Market: A popular street bazaar named for the Tin Hau temple located center stage stimulates the senses with fortune tellers, opera performers, and street food hawkers interspersed with endless displays of trinkets, tea ware, electronics, watches, menswear, and antiques.

Markets Hong Kong

Trinkets, chess pieces, and mah jongg sets on display in Kowloon’s outdoor markets

Ladies Market: Located at Tung Choi Street, this is the place to find inexpensive women’s clothes, from lingerie to shoes. It’s especially good for jeans and accessories, men’s and kids’ clothing, as well as toys and knick-knacks.

Flower Market, Hong Kong

Flower Market

Jade Market: Visit the Jade Market in Yau Ma Tei at the junction of Kansu and Battery Streets to browse 450 stalls selling jade of all types, shapes, sizes and prices. Believed to bestow magical properties, wearing jade provides a triple benefit: good health, good luck, and protection from evil spirits.

Bird Garden: Nestled into Yuen Po Street, this charming Chinese-style garden and tribute to the age-old avian hobby includes some 70 songbird stalls. Beautifully crafted bamboo cages and bottomless bins of live crickets are also for sale. Nearby, the Flower Market peddles everything from Dutch tulips to exotic orchids, and on Tung Choi Street, stop at the Goldfish Market to gaze at aquariums, corals, and exotic fish.

Bird Garden

Song bird enthusiasts will be enthralled with Kowloon’s Bird Garden

RESTAURANTS:

Overseas visitors soon realize that the Chinese food they encounter in their countries bears little resemblance to what is served in Hong Kong. Cantonese dim sum (dumplings steamed in bamboo baskets) are delicious light as air morsels meant to be shared—authentic local places are plentiful. Many menus, although only in Chinese, come equipped with user friendly photos, so pointing can be a very effective way of ordering. Beyond Cantonese choices, there’s a substantial cosmopolitan culinary scene: Southeast Asian cultures are well represented — Malaysian, Thai, and Singaporean.

Dim Sum, Hong Kong

Dim Sum translates to “little heart”

Cuisine Cuisine: There are two outposts of this well regarded restaurant, one in Kowloon (with sweeping views of the Harbor) and one on Hong Kong Island. Mastering the “36 Chinese Cooking Methods,” they offer a genuine Cantonese dining experience with dishes prepared with seasonal ingredients and traditional, time-honored recipes.

Serenade: With a panoramic, harbor view, this bustling Cantonese restaurant is conveniently located right above the Cultural Center and offers an array of stir-fry and dim sum served from traditional trolleys.

Hutong: Dine in the evening at this northern Chinese restaurant to make the most of the dramatic views and the nightly multimedia light show over the harbor. Settle into the funky, vintage Hong Kong vibe and enjoy a signature Chinese menu with a contemporary twist.

Afternoon Tea, Peninsula, Hong Kong

Digging in to Afternoon Tea at the Peninsula

Afternoon Tea at Peninsula Hotel: Make a stop a this iconic, colonial era hotel’s, high ceilinged lobby for an elegant afternoon of tea and finger sandwiches, savory pastries, and raisin scones served with clotted cream and strawberry preserves. Hint: although the often lengthy queue for afternoon tea starts at 2pm, (first come, first served), if you sit at a table earlier (around 1:30pm) and order an appetizer from the lunch menu, you can promptly switch to the tea menu when it commences.

DAY TRIPS:

Lantau Island: Take a ferry to Hong Kong’s largest island – home to Disneyland and the city’s international airport. Its south coast is ringed by beaches, and its mountainous center region boasts the red, orange and gold Po Lin Monastery, and the bronze Tian Tan Buddha, known affectionately as the “Big Buddha.” A long flight of steps takes you up to the statue’s base and rewards you with expansive views of the city.

Big Buddha, Lantau Island, Hong Kong

Lantau Island’s Tian Tan Buddha

Macau: Originally a Portuguese colony, it was returned to China in 1999 becoming, like Hong Kong, a Special Administrative Region (SAR). Once a sleepy outpost, it is now known as the “Vegas of the East.” There’s lots of pizzazz provided by international mega-casinos, but pockets of graceful southern European charm can still be found. Accessible by ferryboat or four-hour car ride, an ongoing massive construction project consisting of 26 miles of bridges and tunnels will eventually link Hong Kong to Macau (trimming the ride to 45 minutes).

Herricks Travel American ExpressReady to plan a unique trip for you or your family? Contact me at mollie@herrickstravel.com. For more information on my trip planning services, please click here.

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Best of Hong Kong Island

Best of Hong Kong Island

When planning a visit to Hong Kong, a common question is usually asked – where to stay – Hong Kong Island or Kowloon? First time visitors often head right to Kowloon (the peninsula area connected with China’s mainland) because of its easy access from the cruise ship terminal. Hong Kong Island, which lies just south across Victoria Harbour, is the city’s economic center with a bit of soul. It features a mix of sites from soaring towers to stylish Soho. Thanks to several tunnels and bridges and the Star Ferry connecting the two areas, it’s even easier than ever to crisscross from one to the other and explore both locations in one trip.

Hong Kong IslandHong Kong Island’s Central District is know for its tightly packed financial hub. It’s heavy on international banks, but light on historical buildings. For gallery hopping or antique browsing, visit Lan Kwai Fong and Soho. Sheung Wan is more traditional but still hip, while Wan Chai beckons visitors to its nightlife and shopping mecca, Causeway Bay. By contrast, the island’s more serene, and less inhabited southern coast, is ringed with harbors and sandy beaches.

Hong Kong Island

Aberdeen Harbor on Hong Kong Island’s southern coast

CENTRAL, WESTERN AND THE PEAK

Star Ferry: A fifteen-minute journey on this iconic ferry across Victoria Harbor is a great way to take a photo op of the city skyline and surrounding mountain view. Tip: go in the evening to catch the nightly multimedia, Symphony of Lights Laser Show.

Lan Kwai Fong and Soho: These trendy areas are known for their stylish galleries and eclectic boutiques, modern cuisine, and chic drinking spots lined up on Hollywood Road.

Mid-levels Escalator: Take a ride on this unique people mover, which runs between the Central and Western Districts (it was completed in 1993 at a cost of HK$245 million). With 20 separate sections covering 800 meters (2,625 feet) it’s undoubtedly the world’s longest outdoor escalator system. Designed to ease the jam-packed traffic below, it begins at 100 Queen’s Road Center.

Ladder Street: You won’t need to hit the gym if you take a climb up this 19th century street, named for its steep stone steps that zigzag from Caine Road to Hollywood and Queen’s Roads.

Man Mo Temple: This Taoist temple with its dramatic curling incense dangling from the ceiling is one of the city’s oldest temples. Dedicated to the gods of war and literature, it was built in 1847 during the colonial era. Wander through the otherworldly, smoke-filled rooms and shake prayer-sticks from a bamboo container and have your fortune read by the resident soothsayers.

Man Mo Temple, Hong Kong Island

Incense coils hang dramatically from the ceiling of the Man Mo Temple

Hong Kong Park: Although almost exclusively manmade, this eight-hectre park is worth a visit. Wander through the Aviary, home to over 90 different species of birds, stop in the Museum of Tea Ware, or check out the t’ai chi practitioners early in the morning.

Sheung Wan: Crossing into this neighborhood brings you into the more traditional and residential areas of Hong Kong Island. Stop on Man Wa Lane to see the chop-makers — craftsmen who create Chinese character name stamps from blocks of stone that serve as a signature on official documents. Since it only takes about an hour (and they will translate the names into Chinese for you), they make a great souvenir or gift.

Des Vouex Road West: Known as the center of Chinese medicine trade in Hong Kong, this area is where all manner of herbs, ancient remedies, dried extracts, and animal parts can be purchased. Nearby streets Wing Lok and Ko Shing specialize in ancient Chinese tonic foods, ginseng, and bird’s nest, believed to hold the key to a longer life, increased energy, and a glowing complexion – who wouldn’t want that!

Hong Kong Island

A vendor on Des Voeux Road shows off caterpillar and other ancient remedies used in the medicinal trade

Peak Tram: This almost vertical ride takes you straight up to Victoria Peak, the highest point on the island. Built 125 years ago, it’s Asia’s oldest funicular. An eight-minute trip rewards you with amazing views of Kowloon and Victoria Harbor and on a clear day, a glimpse of mainland China. Walk the nature paths and then wander through Victoria Peak Gardens.

Victoria Peak, Hong Kong Island

Victoria Peak’s stunning views of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon across the harbor

WAN CHAI AND CAUSEWAY BAY

Causeway Bay: Not far from the metropolitan center of Wan Chai (located on the northern shore of the island) is one of Hong Kong’s most impressive shopping complexes, Causeway Bay — a place to dine and shop late into the night. Nearby is the area’s own bustling “Times Square,” a mega mall with 14 floors of international shops, restaurants, and a cinema.

Happy Valley Racecourse: The first horse race was held here in 1846 and it continues to be a main attraction and home to the Hong Kong Jockey Club. Its vast stands can accommodate over 55,000 spectators. Stop by the complex’s Hong Kong Racing Museum for some historical perspective and pick up a few tips on famous trainers, jockeys, and horses.

THE SOUTH SIDE

Aberdeen: A harbor with an urban feel, its surrounding waters are filled with hundreds of wooden fishing boats, junks (ancient Chinese sailing ships), sampans (flat bottomed wooden boats), and yachts all bobbing in the natural typhoon shelter. Once a quaint fishing village, it has evolved into a high-rise filled town. Take a half-hour Sampan Tour from Aberdeen Promenade to get a close up view of life on the water. If you have time, stop for lunch at the famous floating restaurant Jumbo, which resembles an ornately decorated Imperial Palace.

Jumbo Seafood, Hong Kong Island

A Sampan ride will take you past famous Jumbo Floating Restaurant

Stanley Market: On the southern coastline of Hong Kong Island is this lively open-air market offering traditional handicrafts and locally made clothes and accessories at bargain prices. Maybe it’s a bit touristy, but it’s a great place to pick up last minute gifts and knick-knacks at reasonable prices. (My kids can never resist an opportunity to haggle!)

Stay tuned for my article on Kowloon.  Header image courtesy of Wikimedia commons.

Herricks Travel American ExpressReady to plan a unique trip for you or your family? Contact me at mollie@herrickstravel.com. For more information on my trip planning services, please click here.

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Twelve Top Travel Apps

So, you’ve contacted your travel agent, booked a trip, and packed your bags, but are you really ready to go? Before you leave, take a moment to download these useful travel apps that will help make your vacation a smooth and stress free adventure. Load them up (and sign into your personal accounts when required) while you’re at home where the Wi-Fi is much faster and safer.

Airline apps: There’s one for just about every airline: American, Delta, JetBlue, United, etc. Enter your frequent flyer numbers and flight information. Many allow you to check in, pay for bags, change your seat, check for upgrades, and display your boarding pass.

LoungeBuddy: Not all airport lounges are exclusively for first class flyers. This app allows you to check out more than 2,000 lounges in 600 airports, and determines which you can access. Enter the details of your trip, airline status and membership, or premium credit card info (like Amex Platinum) and it will let you know which lounges you can visit for free or for a one-time fee. Includes lounge hours and locations.

WhatsApp: This international calling and messaging app allows you to call someone around the world for free as long as that person also installs the app – no hidden costs or international fees.  It even saves incoming messages when your phone is off.  Easy to use, your contacts are transferred from your phone’s address book.

Currency Convertor: There are plenty of them out there — pick one that’s free and you are ready to go from pounds to pesos, and dollars to dinars.

Sky Guide: This is not specifically a travel app, but we use this whenever we are out of the New York area and visiting a place with less light pollution. Satisfy your inner amateur astronomer and identify all those heavenly bodies you can only see in a truly dark sky. The app uses your device’s own GPS to know which direction you are pointing your phone to immediately reveal a map of the stars, constellations, galaxies, and planets, above and below the horizon.

OpenTable: This online, real-time restaurant reservation app is available in many cities around the globe, and includes reviews and a frequent dining program. Search by location, date, time, cuisine, or price range.

Amex App: This one is for the American Express card, but most credit cards will have an app to help you keep track of spending, pay your bill, check your reward benefits, and most importantly, provide you with immediate fraud alerts if your card has been stolen or compromised while traveling.

Ride Share Apps: Uber and Lyft are the go to ride share companies in many countries, but before you depart the U.S., research what the best version for your destination. There may be a preferred local choice.

Car rental apps: a convenient way to keep track of your car rentals and member status while on the road

Translator apps: when time matters, get quick translations that sound natural.

Train apps: download the train app for your destination to keep on top of schedule and track changes.

 

Ready to plan a unique trip for you or your family? Contact me at mollie@herrickstravel.com. For more information on my trip planning services, please click here.

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Header image courtesy of m.vank

Bali’s Unforgettable Ubud

Bali’s Unforgettable Ubud

Bali, IndonesiaNo visit to Bali is complete without a visit to its geographic, spiritual, and cultural heart – Ubud. Go there first to absorb the essence of Bali before hitting the island’s famous beaches. This bustling bamboo and banyan tree-lined town of Hindu temples, galleries, cafes, boutiques, and yoga retreats completely embodies the Balinese experience. Extensive development defines Denpasar (the capital city), but natural beauty and authentic traditions can be found by getting off the beaten track and into the island’s enlightened center. For the Hollywood version of Bali, rent the film Eat, Pray, Love (or read the memoire) and plan your own journey of discovery.

Sacred Monkey Forest, Bali, IndonesiaBali is part of the Republic of Indonesia (a sprawling archipelago of over 17,000 islands), with the Bali Sea to the north and Indian Ocean to the south. Just eight degrees south of the equator, its climate is tropical with a dry season from April to October. Although it’s a small island (about the size of Delaware or Costa Rica), it’s densely populated and very diverse: lush jungles, rice terraces, and towering volcanoes dot the interior; coral reefs and sprawling sand  beaches (in Nusa Dua, Jimbarin and Semniyak) dot its coasts.

Rice Terraces, Bali

Bali’s emerald green rice terraces are worth a visit

Rice Farming, Bali

Rice seedlings are nurtured in seed beds and then replanted

The Balinese people, a mix of Malay and Polynesian, with Indian, Chinese, and Arab culture blended in, are a welcoming people with a passion for authentic experiences – food, music, and dance are all intertwined with everyday life. Most adhere to Balinese Hinduism, (while the rest of Indonesia is predominately Muslim). Dedicated to family and ritual, a stable economy affords them the ability to take time out to practice the arts. Many tourists visit the island primarily to load up on Balinese teak wood furniture, sculpture, and handicrafts, sending it back to their home countries by container ship.

Of course, Bali offers outdoor aficionados all the essential land and sea adventures: hiking, white water rafting, cycling, jungle trekking, SCUBA, snorkeling, and surfing lessons. But, a visit to Ubud is what distinguishes Bali from other tropical isles.

BEST OF UBUD:

Ubud Market: Located at the intersection of Jalan Raya Ubud and Monkey Forest Road, it’s filled with handicrafts, souvenirs, clothing, fabrics, woven baskets and more. My boys always love an opportunity to bargain!

Threads of Life: This textile arts center sells authentic, handmade, natural-dyed Indonesian textiles, especially those featuring the famous Ikat technique, a weaving process that utilizes tie-dyed yarns.

Blue Stone Botanicals: An aromatherapy shop featuring products that are 100% natural and sustainable. Stock up on body balms, essential oils, and room sprays made from pure Balinese rainwater in delectable fragrances like lemongrass ginger, sweet orange, and bergamot, all in charming, gift-able packaging.

Biasa: Beautiful and high quality (but not high cost) Balinese clothing utilizes pure silk and linen materials and natural dying methods — hand woven and stitched by local artisans.

Bintang Supermarket: It’s always fun to stop at a local supermarket while traveling abroad. We picked up small souvenirs and locally grown spices and exotic produce like dragon fruit, snake fruit, Balinese oranges, and passion fruit and of course, pilsner-type Bintang Beer.

John Hardy: This famous, international jewelry designer is headquartered in Ubud. Call ahead for a pre-arranged tour: explore the open air workshop and design center, organic farm, and enjoy lunch prepared in their traditional Balinese kitchen joined by artisans and designers, and of course, a visit to the jewelry boutique.

Puri Saren Agung: Just across the street from the Ubud Market, this well preserved, Balinese-style palace was the home of the royal family that ruled from the late 1800’s to WWII. At night, dance performances are held in the central courtyard.

Puri Saren Agung, Bali

Puri Saren Agung

Museum Puri Lukisan: This museum of painting preserves and exhibits traditional and modern Balinese arts and, if you are interested in purchasing artwork while in Bali, this is a good place to become educated in the various styles before visiting the many local galleries.

Waring Babi Guling Bu Oka: Come to this simple, local café for an authentic and filling suckling pig lunch served in a rattan bowl with heaps of steamed rice, spicy vegetables, and secret sauce.

Batan Waru: Authentic Indonesian restaurant in the heart of Ubud with indoor/outdoor seating. Favorite dishes include delicious Lemper Ayam (sticky rice and shredded chicken wrapped in grilled banana leaf), local favorite Nasi Campur (mixed plate of rice, red chili chicken, sate, long beans, and prawn fritters) and Bebek Goreng (Peking duck).

Sacred Monkey Forest, Ubud

Adorable residents of the Sacred Monkey Forest

Sacred Monkey Forest: Walk along a paved path through this lush forest preserve and temple complex and see the macaques up close and personal. Make sure to keep shiny objects, food and water bottles hidden lest have them snatched by these fearless and mischievous creatures! The Balinese hold these long-tailed monkeys in high esteem – they are believed to guard the temples against evil spirits.

Four Seasons Bali at Sayan: Located in a lush valley beside the Ayung River, the resort’s palm-tree lined winding paths take you past rice paddies, herb gardens, and lotus ponds, and features spacious suites and private villas with open-air living areas and plunge pools. Resort activities include Indonesian cooking classes, AntiGravity Yoga (with bespoke hammocks to support bodies of all ages and abilities into inverted postures), sunset meditation, and traditional Balinese healing sessions.

Four Seasons Sayan Bali

Villa photo courtesy of Four Seasons Sayan

Viceroy Hotel: This small, boutique, all-villa property, owned by an Austrian/Australian family, overlooks the Valley of the Kings and the Petanu River with distant views of volcano Mount Batur. Villas, exquisitely decorated and appointed with artwork by local craftsmen, include private heated pools and outdoor living space with cozy day beds. Come before sunset to take in the views while sipping a cocktail at the handsome resort bar and stay for dinner at CasCades, an open-pavilion restaurant serving modern European cuisine.

Viceroy Hotel Bali

Terrace Pool Villa photo courtesy of Viceroy Bali

EXCURSIONS FROM UBUD:

South of Ubud… Take a trip to Celuk, the center for metal craftsmanship and stop at Prapen, a silversmith boutique that preserves traditional Indonesian techniques. Visit Bali Bidadari to witness the ancient art of Batik, a delicate process that includes drawing, waxing and dyeing of fabric — a source of national pride. Take time out for a Luwak coffee tasting at Subak Bali Agro Plantation. Under the green canopy of palm and papaya trees, sample locally grown coffees and teas like coconut, ginger, or ginseng in your own private, breezy, grass-roof hut. For a hands-on experience, visit Sari Rejeki and take a turn at wood carving. Their gallery sells exquisite furniture, sculpture, and wall décor crafted from an impressive selection of wood varietals. The moat-ringed Royal Temple of Mangwi, Pura Taman Ayun, (which translates to “beautiful garden”) lives up to its name with landscaped terraces, broad canals, and soaring pagodas.

Batik, Bali, Indonesia

Batik artisans at work

Wood carving, Bali, Indonesia

My son tries his hand at wood carving

Pura Taman Ayun, Bali

Pura (Temple) Taman Ayun

Elephant Safari Park, Bali

A friendly feeding at the Elephant Safari Park

Elephant Safari Park, Bali

North of UbudElephant Safari Park & Lodge features animals primarily rescued from the effects of Sumatra’s deforestation. Here you can touch, hand-feed, and take a ride in a teak wood chair atop a gentle giant as it winds its way through the cool jungles of Taro. Rice marks the daily rhythms of life in Bali, and in the central highland’s Jatiluwih Rice Terraces you can witness the preservation of these traditional farming methods along with a breathtaking view, 2,700 feet above sea level. Throughout the island, you will see the tiny offerings (little trays of flowers or petals) set upon the ground, made to the deities to ensure a good harvest, indicative of the Balinese nature-based worship and daily devotional beliefs.

Luwak Coffee Plantation

Roasting coffee beans at Subak Bali Agro Plantation

Luwak Coffee Plantation, Bali

Indulge in an alfresco coffee and tea tasting

Planning a stop in Nusa Dua? Include a stay at The St. Regis Bali. This gorgeous beach front resort on the shores of the Indian Ocean, offers Balinese inspired suites and villas, a meandering lagoon pool, lush manicured gardens, a luxurious spa, and a Kids Learning Center (with a varied program of classes in art, music, culture and cuisine).

Offerings, Bali

Daily petite offerings are made to appease the gods

Travel tip: Singapore, only a two-hour flight away, makes the perfect vacation destination companion to Bali. Click here to read my recent article on Singapore.

 

Ready to plan a unique trip for you or your family? Contact me at mollie@herrickstravel.com. For more information on my trip planning services, please click here:

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Singapore: A City-State of Contrasts

Singapore: A City-State of Contrasts

IMG_3015Singapore offers all of Asia in one island. Its cultural fabric weaves together immigrants of Chinese, Indian, and Malaysian descent – their warm hospitality a common thread. All have brought along their indigenous food, religion, and tradition – on display in their respective cultural centers.  Racial diversity married to ethnic tolerance is the key to this city-state’s phenomenal success.

Separated from Malaysia by the Straits of Johor, this petite island republic measures only 26 miles east/west and 14 miles north/south.  A former British colony, it gained independence from Malaysia in 1965.  Once considered just a “stopover,” Singapore has developed into a world-class, modern city, thanks to former Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew, who dedicated his three-decade term to economic development and social programing resulting in this feat of urban planning.

Marina Bay Sands Hotel, Singapore

Singapore’s architectural wonder, Marina Bay Sands, with its sky-high park, stands tall over the harbor area.

Clean and orderly, but not lacking in character and flavor, this compact, walkable city-state is where sophisticated infrastructure sidles up to traditional British colonial-era architecture.  Once seen as overbearing and labeled a “fine” city, because of its harsh monetary penalties for littering, spitting, and gum chewing, rules have lightened, but streets still remain pristine.

Year round, Singapore’s climate offers little variation, but November and January can be rainier. Only 80 miles from the equator, temps range in the 70-80’s; it’s humid but not unbearable, with comfortably cooler nights.

BEST OF SINGAPORE:

Chinatown: Experience traditional and authentic Singaporean Chinese life. The five-story, Tang-dynasty, Buddha Tooth Relic Temple is said to be the home of the Buddha’s left canine tooth – the temple’s opulent, gold encrusted décor definitely deserves a walk-through.  Shop Chinatown Marketplace with its vibrant vegetable and fruit stands, cheap, quick meals, and action-packed wet market where all manner of meat, fowl, and fish are bought and sold.  Chinatown’s pedestrian zone presents peddlers offering accessories and souvenirs – trinkets, chopsticks, and tea sets. For lunch, visit Sin Swee Kee for a simple but delicious Hainanese Chicken Rice meal: steamed and slow cooked in broth, served with rice and soup – it’s a national dish of Singapore.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, Singapore

Chinatown’s elaborate Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

Chinatown, Singapore

Chinatown’s pedestrian zone charms shoppers of all ages

Chinatown Marketplace, Singapore

A fishmonger displays the day’s catch at Chinatown Marketplace

Chinatown Marketplace, Singapore

Fish, fowl & amphibian — all for sale at Chinatown Marketplace

Little India:  Browse the Arcade for colorful saris, flower garlands, silk fabrics, gold jewelry, jasmine and spices, and have a temporary, henna tattoo inked in intricate designs on your hand. Shop 24-hour Mustafa Center and snack on roti prata (grilled flour pancakes served with vegetable or meat curry).  Visit Hindu temple, Sri Mariamman Temple, (know for its fire walking ceremony), and gaze up at its ornate, colorful gopuram (Dravidian-style, pyramid-shaped sandstone towers).

Little India, SIngapore

In Little India, vendors display flower garlands used in Hindu burial ceremonies

Sri Mariamman Temple, Singapore

Sri Mariamman Temple’s iconic and ornate gopuram

Kampong Glam: The Malay neighborhood is a gathering place for immigrants from Malaysia, Indonesia, and the Middle East and the impressive, newly restored, golden-domed Sultan Mosque is its center piece.   Arab Street and Haji Lane are lined with Mediterranean restaurants, two-story shop houses, bazaars, and local designer’s quaint boutiques. Stop in Jamal Kazura Aromatics for bespoke fragrances and aromatic oils presented in glass perfume bottles imported from Egypt.  Indulge in a cup of Teh Tarik or Bubble Tea (sweetened milk tea mixed with tapioca), elaborately “pulled” from high above – this perfectly mixes and cools the beverage.

Kampong Glam, Singapore

The Sultan Mosque, the centerpiece of Kampong Glam

Kampong Glam, Singapore

Jamal Kazura Aromatics mixes up essential oils sourced from around the globe

Gardens by the Bay: A horticulturist’s dream, this national garden includes over 250 acres of reclaimed land dotted with 18 giant, 16-story, Supertrees (giant vertical gardens designed to harvest solar energy); two glass biomes conservatories, the Flower Dome (world’s largest greenhouse) home to plants from the cool-dry Mediterranean and subtropical regions, and the cool-misty Cloud Forest with its world’s largest indoor waterfall and 35-metre mountain. Take a walk on the Skyway – it connects the Supertrees and offers an infinite high-rise view.  At night, the trees come to life with a light and sound show. The tram and audio tour offers easy access to the whole complex, which also boasts plenty of dining options and a children’s garden with water features.

Gardens by the Bay, Singapore

Gardens by the Bay as seen from Marina Bay Sands Skypark

Gardens by the Bay Supertrees, Singapore

Gardens by the Bay’s Supertrees and Skyway

The Flower Dome at Gardens by the Bay, Singapore

The Flower Dome at Gardens by the Bay

The Cloud Forest at Gardens by the Bay, Singapore

The Cloud Forest at Gardens by the Bay

Marina Bay Sands Hotel: The triple-towered, 2,500-room skyscraper is topped by a miracle of engineering—the three-acre, cantilevered, SkyPark complete with landscaped gardens, infinity pool, bars, restaurants, and observation deck.  It’s big enough to fit four and a half A380 jumbo jets!  Dine at Sky on 57 (Singapore’s celebrity chef Justin Quek’s modern twist on traditional Asian) and stay late to enjoy a cocktail and watch the sunset and city lights from the outdoor terrace of Flight Bar & Lounge.  Back down on terra firma, is the hotel’s casino, theatres, convention center, Marina Bay Shoppes, and Museum of ArtScience.

Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

Marina Bay Sands’ amazing rooftop infinity pool

Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

Check Marina Bay Sands’ website to purchase tickets to the Observation Deck for a sky-high Singapore view

Orchard Road: Stroll along this tree-line boulevard which packs 22 malls into a mile and a half. The place to seek out international brands and electronics, and the underground connecting tunnels are a great place to escape the midday heat.

Waterfront Promenade: A continuous walkway links up a necklace of attractions:  Collyer Quay, Marina Center & Bayfront areas. Don’t miss Singapore’s mascot, the Merlion (it “mashes up” the head of a lion with the body of a fish) — it stands guard over the marina area.

Promenade, Singapore

The Harbor Promenade – the perfect path

River Cruise:  Board a Bumboat (a small vessel used to ferry provisions in Singapore’s historic trading port), cruise along the Singapore River, and make several stops along the way. Visit the Asian Civilizations Museum for an excellent history lesson and enjoy legendary Chili Crab at Jumbo Seafood at Riverwalk.  Boat Quay and Clarke Quay offer plenty of international, al fresco dining choices along the river. Or, enjoy a cup of tea (or a pint!) at elegant Fullerton Hotel, a 19th century, iconic-columned landmarked building.

River Cruise, Singapore

The River Cruise take you past Marina Bay Sands and all of Singapore’s sights

Jumbo Seafood, Singapore

Dig in to Chili Crab at Jumbo Seafood

Sentosa: This touristy resort island packs an entertainment punch: Universal Studios theme park, Resorts World, Adventure Cove Waterpark, S.E.A. Aquarium (register for a behind the scenes VIP tour and Aquarist for a Day program), and lovely sand beaches.

For kids of all ages: Visit Singapore Zoo (over 2,800 animals set in a lush tropical rainforest setting); Singapore Flyer (165-meter observation wheel); Night Safari (get up close and personal with 2,500 nocturnal creatures like Malayan Tigers and Asian Rhinos); Botanic Gardens (including the 60,000- species National Orchid Garden).  Or, cross the border to LEGOLAND Malaysia (passport and possible Visa required).

Hotels: Located in the Marina area are the Mandarin Oriental (atrium-style, excellent breakfast, and outdoor rooftop pool) and the Ritz Carlton; Four Seasons and Singapore Marriott located near Orchard Road.  Don’t miss 19th century Raffles Hotel and sip a celebrated Singapore Sling at the hotel’s Long Bar!

Raffles Hotel, Singapore

No visit to Singapore is complete without a stop at Raffles Hotel

Travel tips: Fly into Singapore’s Changi Airport, the “World’s Best Airport.”  Bali, only a two-hour flight away, makes the perfect vacation destination companion to Singapore. Click here to read my recent article on Bali.

Ready to plan a unique trip for you or your family? Contact me at mollie@herrickstravel.com. For more information on my trip planning services, please click here.

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Israel’s Desert Delight

Israel’s Desert Delight

cropped-img_82131.jpgA recent New York Times article highlights how Israel has managed to overcome one of its many challenges—drought—through sophisticated desalination methods and country-wide curbs on water consumption, enabling this country to thrive despite the fact that the Negev Desert takes up 60% of its land mass. (California, take note!)

The article also serves as the perfect travel promotion with its accompanying photo of the Beresheet Hotel’s glistening sky blue pool overlooking sprawling Makhtesh Crater!

Photo credit: Uriel Sinai, NY Times

Makhtesh Crater, photo credit: Uriel Sinai, NY Times

A visit to Israel will most likely include stops in the Golan Heights (its mountainous northern region); Jerusalem (its religious and historical heart), and Tel Aviv (its entertainment and cultural hub). But, for something entirely different, you might want to include a stay in the desert.

The Makhtesh Crater is one of Israel’s often over-looked natural attractions. Located in Mitzpe Ramon, (a two-hour drive south of Tel Aviv, and a one-hour 45 minute trip north from Eilat), this 25-mile long, five-mile wide crater, is the world’s largest erosion cirque (valley) and features fossil, rock, and volcanic formations that date back 220 million years. With a depth of 1,650 feet, it was formed not from the impact of a meteorite, but from water and climatic forces. Stop at the newly opened Mitzpe Ramon Visitor Center for interactive exhibits and a quick geology lesson. (There is also a touching memorial to Ilan Ramon, the Israeli astronaut who lost his life in 2003 when the Shuttle Columbia disintegrated upon re-entering the earth’s atmosphere).

Beresheet Hotel, Mitzpe Ramon, Israel

View of the crater, photo credit: Isrotel

Perched on the edge of the towering cliffs that slope down into Makhtesh Ramon, is the Beresheet Hotel. It provides guests with an exceptional view into this dramatic landscape and ancient dwelling place, with enough amenities – spa, indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, movie theatre and children’s club—to make this trip a complete pampered adventure.

Beresheet Hotel, Mitzpe Ramon, Israel

Beresheet Hotel, Mitzpe Ramon. Photo credit: Isrotel

Rough it during the day with guided Jeep tours of the crater and its environs to learn about the geological history of the crater, the Negev Desert’s diverse wildlife and the ancient civilization that called it home. Plenty of other diverse activities in the area will keep you busy: cycling tours, hot air balloon flights, nighttime safaris, desert photography classes, alpaca farms, and wine tasting. At the end of the day, cool off in the hotel’s pool, perfectly perched on the cliffs above the heart-shaped Makhtesh Crater and take in the wondrous sights of this geological gem.

[Header photo credit: Isrotels]

Ready to plan a unique trip for you or your family? Contact me at mollie@herrickstravel.com. For more information on my trip planning services, please click here.

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On your way home from Israel, why not make a stop in Istanbul — it’s only a two-hour flight from Tel Aviv. Click here to read my recent article: Istanbul: Where East Meets West.

London’s Top Ten

London’s Top Ten

I know it’s impossible to boil down all that London has to offer to a list of just ten. But, if you happen to be making a stop in London, maybe as part of a longer visit to the U.K., this will help you narrow the choices:

British Museum, London

The British Museum’s “Great Court”

British Museum: From Aztec to Assyrian, Babylonian to Byzantine, Victorian to Viking, this museum’s vast permanent collection includes over eight million arts and artefacts from all seven continents. Always obsessed with archeology, my kids made a beeline for the Rosetta Stone (the key to deciphering the hieroglyphics) and the Elgin Marbles (having visited their original home at the Parthenon, Athens).

The 19th century, dramatic, Greek-revival style building had a modern, awe-inspiring re-design of its interior courtyard. The courtyard’s magnificent glass and steel roof brings the outdoors in – even on overcast days it’s bright inside. Go on a scavenger hunt to find real-life objects featured in the recent flick, Night at the Museum: Secret of the Tomb (filmed on location at the museum). Your youngster can even explore the museum after dark and spend their own “night at the museum” at one of the hosted sleepovers.

London Palace Guards

London Palace Guards, courtesy of londonpictures.com

Changing the Guard: The height of British tradition, this ritual takes place at Buckingham Palace every day at 11:30am from April through July, and on alternate days the rest of the year. (Check the website for exact dates.) The guards have watched over the palace since 1660 and the ceremony occurs when one regiment takes over from another. For more insight on all the pomp and pageantry, download the official Changing the Guard Royal Collection App.” Or view at other lesser-known London locations (Horse Guards Arch and Horse Guards Parade).

Changing the Guard, Buckingham Palace

During wet weather, the Buckingham Palace guards wear grey coats

Churchill War Rooms: Discover the original wartime bunker that sheltered Churchill and his government during the WWII Blitz. The self-guided tour reveals intense stories of those who worked underground as London was being bombed from above. The life and legacy of Winston Churchill is laid out in the interactive Churchill Museum, giving you a glimpse of what life was like during these very tense days from his rousing wartime speeches to his personal letters to his wife, Clementine. The Map Room (the nerve center where military personnel collected and verified vital geographic information) remains exactly as it was left the night the lights were extinguished in 1945.

Imperial War Museum-IWM: This unique museum’s exhibits tell the story of how everyday individual lives have been permanently affected by war from WWI to present day. See how ordinary Londoners lived through WWII, coping with rationing and evacuation, from the London Blitz to VE Day. Explore insightful displays featuring the undercover world of espionage, covert operations, and the secret missions of the British Special Forces. The museum gift shop has an excellent bookstore with non-fiction and historical fiction for children and adults of all ages.

Churchill War Rooms

The low-tech Map Room, unchanged since the end of WWII

National Portrait Gallery: This impressive collection of portraits of historically famous and important Brits who have shaped England’s history includes photographs, caricatures, paintings, drawings, and sculpture from the Middle Ages to present day. The Tudor and Elizabethan galleries served as the perfect history lesson for my middle-schooler. The museum is not just kings and queens though – check out the 20th century gallery for portraits of David Beckham, Kate Moss, Paul McCartney, and the much-critiqued painting of Princess Kate.

London Eye

The Eye looms large over London

London Eye: When this giant Ferris wheel went up in 1999 on the River Thames’ South Bank, it was the world’s tallest. (Las Vegas’s High Roller has since taken that top spot.) Still Europe’s tallest, the Eye offers the highest vantage point and spectacular 360 degree views over London. Take a ride in one of 32 glass-enclosed, spacious passenger pods (they hold up to 25 people) and walk freely around the capsule while it completes its 30-minute rotation. Have a special occasion coming up? Reserve a private capsule complete with champagne and chocolates!

Royal Parks: Yes, the sun does shine in London, so take advantage of the city’s eight sprawling Royal Parks, including St. James Park, home to Horse Guards Parade and the annual Trooping the Color, marking the Queen’s official birthday. Wander through Hyde Park and check out Speakers Corner (for weekly Sunday morning spirited public debates), The Serpentine (for peddle boating), and the Princess Diana Memorial Fountain.

St. James Park, London

Springtime in St. James Park

Tower of London: There is a lot of ground to cover at this most famous fortress and UNESCO site that has also served as the royal palace, an armory, and the prison where the infamous Anne Boleyn was beheaded. Beat the crowds and make your first stop the Crown Jewels exhibit. This royal collection, still in use today by the Queen for coronation and national ceremonies, includes the Sovereign’s Scepter with its 530.2 carat diamond, the “Great Star of Africa,” the largest colorless cut diamond in the world. Next, check out the White Tower with its impressive arms and armor display. Join a 60-minute Yeoman Warder Tour, led by one of the iconic, red and gold-uniformed guards (also known as Beefeaters) or a Wall Walk, for a journey along the huge stone encirclement that forms the Tower’s walls. Make sure to book early to witness the Ceremony of the Keys, the ancient 700-year old ceremony – the nightly locking up of the Tower.

Tower of London

The White Tower’s impressive Arms & Armor display

West End Theatre: Although the West End refers to the area of Central London filled with major attractions, shopping, and entertainment, it’s best known for its theatre scene. On par with New York’s Broadway, the West End presents some of the best theatre in the world. Although West End Theatre generally refers to commercial productions, there are also many non-commercial venues with great artistic prestige, and a number of “fringe” theatres (equivalent to Off-Broadway) that provide alternative entertainment and hidden treasures. Check TimeOut London for complete theatre listings and for same-day discount tickets, visit the TKTS booth located in Leicester Square.

Westminster Abbey: This gothic-style building is one of the world’s great churches, with a history stretching back over 1,000 years. Home to coronations, royal weddings (William and Kate’s), burials and memorials, the abbey has commemorated kings and queens, statesmen and soldiers, poets and priests – it’s a venerable parade of British history. Audio guides are available or take the popular verger-led tour. It meets at the North Door, lasts approximately 90 minutes, and includes a visit to the Shrine (containing the tomb of Saint Edward the Confessor), the Royal Tombs, Poets’ Corner, the Cloisters and the Nave. Daily worship services are open to the public – check the website for schedules of beautiful (and free) choral concerts and organ recitals.

Westminster Abbey, London

Westminster Abbey is a UNESCO world heritage site

Ready to plan a unique trip for you or your family? Contact me at mollie@herrickstravel.com. For more information on my trip planning services, please click here.

Please read my other recent London articles: 22 Top Shops, 18 Favorite Places to Eat, and Hampshire: Edu-vacation in England’s Countryside.

SUBSCRIBERS: to view this complete article online and read my previous articles, use this link: uniquefamilytraveler.com.  To become a SUBSCRIBER, enter your email address (top, right hand side of the blog or scroll towards the bottom if using a cell phone) and then respond to the follow-up email.

[blog header photo courtesy of london-pictures.com]

Antigua: Beyond the Beach

Antigua: Beyond the Beach

IMG_2468 (1)Antigua presents all the elements of the proverbial island escape: fine sand beaches (365 of them!), cerulean waters, intimate coves ringed with coral reefs, and lush tropical foliage. What makes it so unique? Its rich history and culture.

The largest of the English-speaking Leeward Islands, Antigua (and its sister island Barbuda) is located in the Eastern Caribbean. With gentle trade winds, low humidity, and an average rainfall of only 45 inches, it’s the sunniest of the Eastern Caribbean Islands. With a brand new airport, (V.C. Bird International), and many non-stop flights from Europe and North America, it’s easily accessible.

Antigua offers natural wonders (Devil’s Bridge natural rock arch, ancient rainforests, and Mount Obama, the island’s highest peak), plenty of land tours (kayaking, ATV and Jeep safaris), and sea activities (sailing, scuba diving, and snorkeling). With a range of accommodations, luxury hotels, all-inclusives, cottages, and villas, there are lodgings to suit every need. As they say on the island, “The beach is just the beginning.”

Antigua

The boys were eager to drop a line in Antigua’s turquoise waters

SOME OF OUR FAVORITE ACTIVITIES:

Bird Island: Part of the country’s National Park system, this petite, uninhabited island just off Antigua’s coast, is fringed by a calm, protected bay, excellent for snorkelers of all levels. Climb the path to the top of the hill for sprawling views of both the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean.

Bird Island, Antigua

Bird Island’s calm bay — the perfect snorkeling spot

Stingray City: Take a journey by speedboat to this sand bar and natural home to dozens of Southern Rays. Safely interact with these graceful animals in the shallow waters inside the Barrier Reef and snorkel amongst corals and tropical fish.

Stingray City, Antigua

Swimming with these gentle giants was a highlight

Zip Line & Canopy Tour: This eco-tour, located on the southwest coast of the island, gives you a bird’s eye view of the rainforest and all of its floral and fauna. Enjoy zip lining, aerial walkway bridges, and a specialty challenge course.

Town of St. John: The island’s capital and bustling cruise ship port provides plenty of retail therapy: visit Heritage Quay, a wide boulevard of duty-free shops; Historic Redcliff Quay with its independent boutiques and cafes; and the Public Market stocked with Caribbean fruits and vegetables. Browse Gingerlilly for beautiful beach cover-ups and Sunseakers for flip-flops and bathing suits.

Shirley Heights: This former military complex offers panoramic views of English Harbor, which are especially dramatic at sunset. The lookout’s Guard House is now a rustic restaurant with a breezy outdoor terrace. Enjoy heaping plates of barbeque chicken and rice and wash it down with rum punch!

Shirley Heights, Antigua

Shirley Heights — stop for lunch and the view

English Harbour: Long known as a hurricane haven for ships, this port was used by the British in the 18th century. The harbour’s Georgian Naval Dockyard is now part of Antigua’s National Parks Authority.

English Harbour, Antigua

English Harbour, home to Nelson’s Dockyard

Nelson’s Dockyard: This UNESCO site in English Harbour was named for Captain Nelson, Commander of the Leeward Islands Station in 1784. Stroll among restored buildings, tour the Admiral’s House & Museum, and stop for a bite at The Admiral’s Inn. Take time to survey the impressive tall sailing ships as they ready themselves for their ocean voyages. (Visit in April through May to witness the annual Antigua Sailing Week and Classic Yacht Regatta.)

Nelson's Dockyard, Antigua

Nelson’s Dockyard plays host to a flotilla of yachts and sailing ships

Dow’s Hill: Perched on a bluff in the National Park is this museum and educational center. Don’t miss the 15-minute multi-media presentation that takes you through Antigua’s history from its indigenous Amerindian roots, to its British military period, the struggle against slavery, and its path to independence and the modern Antiguan way of life.

Catherine’s Café Plage: On your way out of English Harbor, stop at this bistro and bar located on Pigeon Beach. This open-air Caribbean-style beach house, just steps from the sand, offers an authentic, French-inspired Caribbean menu.

Jumby Bay: We were fortunate to stay at this understated yet exceptional Rosewood Hotels property located on a 300-acre private island that can only be reached by a six-minute ferry ride. The island was purchased by a small group of homeowners in 1998, and now consists of 56 private houses (many which can be rented) and 40 rooms and villas within the resort community. Its ranking as one of the “best resorts in the Caribbean” is well deserved.

Rosewood Jumby Bay Antigua

Jumby Bay welcomes its guest via its private dock

The island has a rich biodiversity, which is carefully preserved. Snowy egrets, blue herons, Persian black-headed sheep, and hawksbill sea turtles all call Jumby Bay their home. There are no cars on the island—eco-sensitive transportation is by foot, golf cart or bike via the resort’s numerous winding paths.

Rosewood Jumby Bay Antigua

Beautiful to look at, we returned these crimson-colored starfish back to their watery home

A stay at Jumby Bay includes all food and beverages at its three restaurants – their menus brimming with locally sourced ingredients. Also included are daily resort activities, snorkel excursions to Bird Island and Stingray City, sunset cocktail cruises, beach barbeques, and circumnavigation tours by motorboat. My sons made good use of the complimentary watersports: Hobie cats, paddle boards, waterskiing, and tubing, while my husband and I spent time on silky, white-sand Jumby Beach under one of the many thatched bohios (huts) that dot the shore and protect you from the mid-day Antiguan sun.

Rosewood Jumby Bay, Antigua

At dusk, Jumby Bay’s beachside supper unfolds

Jumby Beach

Although “jumby” means “playful spirit,” peaceful relaxation prevails on this private oasis

Please check out this video of Scuba Diving in Antigua courtesy of my son, “The Suburban Sportsman”

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Herricks Travel American ExpressReady to plan a unique trip for you or your family? Contact me at mollie@herrickstravel.com. For more information on my trip planning services, please click here.

Live like a Queen in County Mayo, Ireland

Live like a Queen in County Mayo, Ireland

Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, winds along the country’s western seaboard for 1,500 miles passing through Counties Mayo, Galway, and Clare. A drive along this route takes you past craggy coastlines, limestone landscapes, and surprisingly sandy beaches. Take a detour from this dramatic natural beauty and delight in a visit back in time at Ashford Castle.

Ashford Castle, Ireland

Ashford Castle

This celebrated, medieval, 13th-century castle located on the Mayo-Galway border and on the shores of Lough (Lake) Corrib, was originally the seat of the De Burgo Family. It has changed hands and was expanded several times over the centuries, becoming the home of the Guinness family in 1852.  It was sold in 1939 and transformed into a world-renowned resort hotel.

To see excellent exterior shots of the castle, check out the TV show Reign (a Game of Thrones meets Marie Antoinette period drama). It’s filmed on location at Ashford. Also, rent John Ford’s classic 1952 film, The Quiet Man, which brought Hollywood royalty, John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara, to the castle grounds and nearby picturesque village of Cong.

Ashford Castle, Ireland

Actors from the TV show “Reign,” which films on location at Ashford Castle

Overflowing with Irish hospitality, this 350-acre sporting estate features classic country past times like skeet shooting and archery juxtaposed with modern amenities. Yes, you will feel truly regal as you weave yourself into the fabric of this fabled estate. Become the star of your own “costume drama”—explore Lady Ardilaun’s walled gardens, bike past ancient Irish pines, amble through woodland paths, and end the day with tea in the castle’s Drawing Room.

OUR FAVORITE ACTIVITIES

Fishing: Our boys were excited to drop a line in the River Cong a fishery famous for brown trout and Atlantic salmon that runs adjacent to Ashford Castle. The resort’s Orvis endorsed gillie (fishing guide), Frank, came well equipped with boat, bait, and tackle.

Fishing

The boys geared up for a morning of fishing on Lake Corrib and the River Cong

Sporting clays: Novice and experience shooters will enjoy the range, with targets that simulate the game available in this region. Beginners will be thoroughly briefed on safety and etiquette.

Ashford Castle, Ireland

In Clay Shooting, each stand features a different target with a distinct trajectory and speed

Falconry: This was our most memorable activity, run by Ireland’s School of Falconry (the oldest established falconry school in the country). Sign up for the Hawk Walk. After a brief training with an instructor, fly Harris Hawks on the grounds of the castle and through the woodlands. What an experience to see these powerful but graceful birds take flight, swoop through the trees, and then land safely back down on our gloved hands.

Ashford Castle, Ireland

With exceptional grace and speed, each Harris Hawk is well trained, gently returning to your gloved hand

Falconry at Ashford Castle

The one-hour Hawk Walk takes you through the castle’s lush woodlands

Dining: The hotel offers a range of choices from Cullen’s Cottage (traditional pub & tea room) to George V (full Irish breakfast and fine dining) to the cozy, belowground Dungeon (bistro-style menu). Also try Wilde’s at nearby sister property, The Lodge at Ashford Castle, for fine Irish cuisine.

Ashford Castle, Ireland

Ashford Castle’s entry hall — romantic and stately

Ashford Castle, Ireland

Take time to enjoy a spot of tea in the Drawing Room

Village of Cong: One afternoon we took a stroll on the footpath to nearby Cong, a pocket-sized town filled with proverbial ivy covered thatched cottages in pastel hues set against a backdrop of wooded hills. (It’s easy to see why John Ford selected it as the location for his famous film). Stop at The Quiet Man Museum, Ladys Buttery Art and Craft Gallery for handcrafted items by local artisans, and the Hungry Monk Café for traditional Irish stew.

Village of Cong

Lush and lovely village of Cong is dotted with ivy strewn cottages

Lake cruise: Local, family-run passenger ferry, Corrib Cruises, operates year-round on Lough Corrib. Board the Inisfree, their 80-passenger vessel, from the castle pier and embark on a two-hour tour of the lake, including a walk around historic Inchagoill, one of 365 islands. On board there’s a full bar serving ample pints of Guinness, and plenty of Irish music, song, and homespun tales of life on the Corrib. (Be ready for a great photo opportunity of Ashford Castle from the water.)

Ashford Castle, Ireland

Board the “Inisfree” at the Castle pier and enjoy a tour of Ireland’s largest lake

Lake Cruise, Ashford Castle, Ireland

The “Corrib Music Cruise” features traditional music by local (and very charming) resident, Martin Noon

Day trip to Cliffs of Moher: This natural attraction, formed 320 million years ago, rises a staggering 702 feet at its highest point over the Atlantic Ocean for a stretch of over five miles. Grab an audio guide from the Visitor Center and walk along the Burren Way to the various viewing platforms and catch a glimpse of puffins nesting in rocky shelves far below. Climb the narrow spiral staircase in O’Brien’s Tower (built in 1835) for a great vista of five counties and the Aran Islands. Movie buffs will recognize these dramatic shale and limestone cliffs from scenes in Harry Potter & the Half Blood Prince and The Princess Bride (where they were humorously referred to as the Cliffs of Insanity).

Cliffs of Moher, Ireland

The Cliffs of Moher loom large over Ireland’s Atlantic coast

Cliffs of Moher, Ireland

Marking the cliff’s highest point, O’Brien’s Tower offers views of Connemara and the Aran Islands

Day trip to Galway City: Less than an hour’s drive away is the City of Galway, filled with eclectic restaurants, stylish boutiques, and annual festivals. Talk a walk around Quay Street brimming with pubs and entertainment or visit the weekend Farmer’s Market to load up on Irish delicacies. Stop by the Philip Treacy-designed g Hotel to see how this famous royal milliner applied his unique over-over-the top esthetic to this boutique property.

Travel Tip: No trip to Ireland is complete without a visit to Dublin. Check out my recent blog: Three Days in Dublin, for what to see, where to stay and where to dine.

Ready to plan a unique trip for you or your family? Contact me at mollie@herrickstravel.com. For more information on my trip planning services, please click here.

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Three Days in Dublin

Three Days in Dublin

It’s so easy to fall in love with Dublin: a compact, walkable city with an abundance of museums and sites, a thriving, eclectic restaurant scene, and a reverence for literary and historical figures. What sets it apart from other European capitals? The Irish wit and wisdom freely dispensed by Dubliners.  Guides, taxi drivers, and proverbial Irish bartenders are the true ambassadors of this city, always ready to share a wry quip or firm opinion.

We settled into the Westbury Hotel, centrally located just off bustling Grafton Street, giving us easy access to bistros, shops, and cafes. Our days kicked off with organic Irish porridge and smoked salmon omelets at the hotel’s main restaurant, Wilde, and ended with afternoon tea and hot chocolate in The Gallery. In between? … many pleasurable hours soaking up Irish history, culture, cuisine, and libations.

WHAT TO DO

Double-decker Bus Tour: In London, they’re red, in Dublin, green of course! This hop-on, hop-off sightseeing tour takes 90 minutes and includes 23 stops on its main route—ideal for first-time visitors.

Walking tours: Often, the best way to experience a city is on foot. For a proficient guide, try historian Pat Liddy and his team of professionals for group or private tours.

Trinity College: Wander around the cobblestone quads of Trinity College, one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in Europe, and visit its most important treasure, the Book of Kells, the 9th century, illuminated four-gospels manuscript. Continue on to the Old Library’s Long Room and marvel at the 200,000 volumes of old and rare books lining the high shelves of this barrel-vaulted, oak-paneled room. (Astute Star Wars fans will recognize this as the CGI Jedi Archive in Attack of the Clones).

Trinity College, Dublin

Over the summer months, Trinity College allows visitors to book a guest room on campus

Long Room, Trinity College, Dublin, Ireland

The Long Room’s historic collection includes a rare copy of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic

Guinness Storehouse: There’s nothing like the taste of Guinness in Ireland—like a smooth, chilled cappuccino, complete with white, frothy head. When it reaches the States, it’s just not the same. This seven-floor brewery tour, located in the 19th-century warehouse, teaches you all about Dublin’s famous brew, “the black stuff.” When you reach the top, enjoy a complimentary pint in the Gravity Bar offering 360° degree views of the city. Book tickets online for discounts and to avoid lines.

Kilmainham Gaol Museum: If you saw the historic biopic Michael Collins (starring Liam Neeson) you would be well versed in the historical significance of this gaol (jail), now a monument to Irish nationalism. It served as the main jail for imprisoned leaders of the rebellion again British rule. Walk through cells and the stonebreakers yard and hear tales of the harsh life of an inmate and Ireland’s deadly struggle for independence. Get there early—tickets are on a first come first served basis.

Guinness Storehouse, Dublin

The Storehouse tour includes a lesson on how to pour the perfect pint of Guinness in six easy steps

Kilmainhan Gaol, Dublin, Ireland

A visit to Kilmainhan Gaol gives you a profound appreciation for Ireland’s history

St. Patrick’s Cathedral: Unlike Manhattan’s St. Patrick’s (Catholic) Cathedral, this is the Protestant Church of Ireland’s national cathedral. It is affectionately known as the “people’s cathedral.” The Guinness family, well known for its philanthropy, helped restore this beautiful Medieval-style building when it sadly fell into disrepair.

Georgian Dublin: Georgian architecture (flat-fronted, five-story row houses that ring gated grassy squares) is a big part of Dublin’s charm. Most notable is Merrion Square with its ivy-strewn buildings boasting colorful and ornate doors, home to Irish author, Oscar Wilde.

St. Patricks Cathedral, Dublin, Ireland

Check the St. Patrick’s Cathedral website for a listing of public concerts and recitals

Georgian Architecture, Dublin, Ireland

Georgian architecture dates back to 1741 and takes its name from the reign of the four King Georges

Irish Jewish Museum: This small but comprehensive museum, located in the former 19th-century Walworth Road Synagogue, was opened in 1985 by Chaim Herzog, Irish-born former President of Israel. The ground floor is filled with memorabilia honoring the Irish Jewish community; upstairs is the original Synagogue.

Phoenix Park: Twice the size of New York’s Central Park, it’s one of the largest city parks in Europe. This verdant, woodland also contains the Dublin Zoo and the President’s Residence, Áras an Uachtaráin.

James Joyce Centre: Learn about the life of the famous writer and his greatest novel, Ulysses, which tells the story of Dublin’s Leopold Bloom during the course of just one day – June 16, 1904. If you haven’t read this important (but VERY lengthy) piece of literature, rent the 1967 Academy Award nominated movie.

The Old Jameson Distillery: Situated in the original home of world-famous Jameson, the tour includes a brief film on the craft of Irish whiskey making from malting to milling to mashing. At the end, sample a glass—triple distillation is the key to its smoothness.

Jameson Distillery, Dublin, Ireland

To go from grain to glass, Jameson must mature for several years in wooden casks

WHERE TO SHOP

Lively and busker-filled pedestrian area Grafton Street and Nassau Street (adjacent to Trinity College) provide plenty of shopping choices. For authentic made in Ireland wares including Waterford, Galway Crystal, Belleek pottery, Jimmy Hourihan and Aran sweaters, try Kilkenny Shop, Blarney Woolen Mills, House of Ireland, Kevin & Howland, and Monaghans. For department store shopping, visit Ireland’s own Brown Thomas. Distinctive Powerscourt Centre offers antique and boutique shopping in a converted 18th-century townhouse. Afterwards, stop for a coffee at famous Bewley’s.

WHERE TO EAT

Rustic Stone: Award winning Irish chef, Dylan McGrath, uses the best seasonal ingredients and stone cooking to create simple yet exceptional, healthy dishes.

Cliff Townhouse: Make a reservation for a special dinner at this elegant Georgian townhouse and boutique hotel overlooking St. Stephen’s Green. Their modern Irish menu features plenty of seafood.

Fade Street Social: Another venue by Dylan McGrath, this lively restaurant includes a Gastro Pub, Tapas Bar, and rooftop Winter Garden. Dishes are prepared with the freshest of ingredients – you’ll experience what farm-to-table truly means.

Matt the Thresher: Hands down the best fish ‘n’ chips with mushy, minty peas in Dublin. The high-ceilinged, bright room, hearty seafood, and friendly and professional service, make this the perfect, casual-dining spot.

Matt the Thresher, Dublin, Ireland

Dive in to Matt the Thresher’s beer battered Fish ‘n’ Chips

Gotham Cafe: We are from NY, so we are serious about pizza, but this small bistro got four thumbs up. Little did we know—they use a stone pizza oven imported from Washington State. The menu features New York neighborhood-named pies like the “Soho” (fresh spinach and feta cheese) and the “Chinatown” (barbequed Peking duck and hoisin sauce).

Temple Bar: A lively area filled with restaurants, cafes, and bars, it comprises a network of streets from Dame Street to the River Liffey. There’s lots of culture here too, so check local papers for listings.

The Brazen Head: Ireland’s oldest pub (dating back to 1198) is also a famous music venue. Legendary alumni include Van Morrison, Mary Black, and Garth Brooks.

WHERE TO STAY

Boutique properties, The Westbury; and the Merrrion, historic Shelbourne Hotel; conveniently located Westin (near Trinity); and contemporary-styled Radisson Blu Royal.

Brazen Head, Dublin, Ireland

Have a pint and enjoy traditional Irish music and folklore at The Brazen Head

Ready to plan a unique trip for you or your family? Contact me at mollie@herrickstravel.com. For more information on my trip planning services, please click here.

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